This was a study looking at daily mineral sunscreen use. It is a smaller study (40 patients), but looked at all skin color types and photodamage and assessed it with photography, ultrasound imaging to look at skin density (which thins with time), and questionnaires to the patients.
What is photodamage? UV light causes damage to the skin. UV radiation causes free radical production in the skin, it damages skin DNA, causes redness and pigmentation, and it damages the collagen and elastin in the skin. What does this mean to you? Sun damage causes pigments and sun spots. It leads to wrinkle formation as it breaks down the collagen and elastin. It leads to skin sagging with time due to poorer elasticity and skin thinning. And it leads to skin cancers. Protecting your skin turns out to be healthier and prettier.
I love mineral sunscreen. Ours is micronized zinc oxide based. The mineral reflects rays off the skin and acts as a physical barrier against UV damage. Many sunscreens are chemical based, and we don’t love this, as the chemicals likely get absorbed through the skin. If you absorb a little zinc? Not an issue.
The study was published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, June 2024, “Effects of a Sheer 100% Mineral Sunscreen Moisturizer on Facial Photodamage Across Fitzpatrick Skin Types.”
Study:
- 40 patients, aged 35-60
- Moderate to severe overall facial photodamage
- All Fitzpatrick skin types were recruited. Fitzpatrick skin types range from I (think super fair skin which burns easily) to VI (think dark skin which never burns). No matter what your skin type is, you are at risk for sun damage.
- Patients applied the mineral sunscreen to the face and neck in the morning, and reapplied as needed if exercising/out in the sun.
- Evaluation was done by photography, ultrasound imaging, corneometer measurements, and questionnaires at each month.
Results?
- Statistically significant progressive improvements were seen from baseline to week 12.
- At week 12, 23.4% improvement in Fitz 1-II, and 26.5% improvement in Fitz IV-VI
- Photography corroborated clinical grading
- Ultrasound imaging showed a trend in skin density improvement
My thoughts?
Good skin care is a no brainer. You should start early (yup. in your 20s? Do good skin care). I think sunscreen is one part of a regimen. My top choices for almost everyone are
- Niacinamide. Science proven to help with pigment, prevent skin cancers (by 20%!), lessen wrinkling. Really well tolerated.
- Retinol. This should be a staple of everyones cabinet. It is a powerful antioxidant, incredibly well studied, and improves everything in the skin. You cannot do this while babymaking/breastfeeding. It is applied at night, and it make take time to get used to it, so i recommend starting it every other/every third night for a few weeks and ramp up. It also may make you more sun sensitive, so wear sunscreen .
- Sunscreen. Mine is a lightly tinted mineral sunscreen. I love it. Important to apply it 20 minutes before going outside, reapply if sweating/swimming, and use on the face and neck. If you are an avid hiker/gardener/biker/golfer/tennis/pickleballer (like all good Bay Area women are), don’t forget your arms and hands.
- Vit C + E. Another antioxidant. I recommend using it in the morning, as studies show it actually helps your sunscreen be more effective.